CDT Day 47 (7/4/23)
Miles 1088.1 (Red line 1284)- 1112.5 (Red line 1308.6) (24.6 miles)
Verbatim
I made it over 1100 miles yesterday. I’m writing from the morning of the 5th. It felt like 1000-1100 took forever. I don’t like that feeling. CO seems so slow, and I’m tired of it. Today I drop down in elevation towards Grand Lake, however. So, this is good! I’m finishing off the high mountain portion of CO. I’m excited to get to Steamboat Springs and get out of this state.
Yesterday was a full and fun day. I walked at 6:10 after Twister rolled by and woke me up. A nice guy named Max dropped me off at the expensive grocer (the only one open). They had couches and wifi! I bought some lemonade, peaches, an orange, and a package of Tofu sausages. I accidentally threw out that sausage packaging later. Oops… the four sausages were 1040 calories and had 88 grams of protein. I ate them all easy while watching Youtube.
Then a hiker named Yeti came through. He’s from Israel and has hiked the National Israel Trail. I’ve got to go do that trail. This winter I hope. Yeti was overly talkative but seemed to be going through a lot. We got Subway together. Then he headed off.
From Subway I walked to the Wake n’ Bacon for third breakfast with Nathan and Sophie. Conversation with them was really wonderful. We ate, we grocery stopped, and they drove me back to trail.
From there it was miles of ridgewnalking on the southern portion of the Pfiffer traverse. It was fun and really spectacular. And I’d eaten enough! Storms came in late in the day. It rained and thundered and was cold. Now I’m in my tent at 7:30 trying to dry off before moving this morning. I caught Pepé last night but don’t see his tent now. I’ll have to catch him again I guess.
Post Note
In Winter Park I participated in what I’ve only recently heard hikers call a “bang-bang”. I’m not sure I want this hiker lingo to stick, but it does make me smile. A hiker bang-bangs when they make a culinary tour of two, or more, of a small mountain town’s food establishments. I ate at the grocer. I ate at Subway. I ate at the Wake n’ Bacon. I guess I bang-bang-banged? Yeah I don’t love the slang, but that’s not the point. The point is that you can be so hungry that you successfully and enjoyably eat three times within the space of three hours. I remember feeling full at the Wake n’ Bacon, but only because I’d ordered pancakes and those are a foolishly filling thing.
Seeing old/new friends was so good. It’s fun getting to know your childhood friend’s significant others. I really wanted to be friends with Sophie because I really want to continue to be friends with Nathan as an adult! I didn’t have to try very hard though. Sophie is cool. I like them together. Go you two! Thanks for coming to breakfast Sophie.
I remember feeling anxious when getting back on trail. I’d looked at the elevation profile and I knew I’d be up high through the night. It had already started to rain on the car as we drove up the pass. I was stuffed, had a heavy bag, and was about to be clamoring over traverse lines at alpine elevations. I even had friends in town, and an invitation to stay for the 4th of July party! It was even Twister’s birthday. But alas, I’ve chickened out on getting back on trail when it looks scary enough times to know that the anxiety it will cause me (and the money it will cost me) is not worth it. Get out there and risk the suffering!
I’m glad I got back on trail. It was a majestic afternoon. I was alone, managed to dodge what small showers did continue, and got to watch cloud formations wisp and play along the contours of the high mountain ridges. As night fell, however, the storm did finally set in. I could see it raining down in Winter Park below. The fireworks would be cancelled. Bummer. I wanted to watch them from my campsite on the ridge. Sorry Twister. Tough break on your birthday.
Oh but I got my fireworks! Lightning came with the rain up and over the ridge I walked. I could see it coming. I could smell the change in the air. I could feel it. I dropped my back and threw on my wind pants and rain jacket. I tucked everything I wanted kept dry in the bag and hunkered down in my layers. The rain hit. I walked. Eventually I got cold and wet while walking. The lightning clipped and sometimes thunder roared. I didn’t get hit, though could see it striking the forest floor in front and to down to my left.
Finally the rain stopped and the final rays of dusk brightened the evening sky as the clouds rolled off. I saw Pepé’s tent tucked down off the ridge below. I went over to say hi and saw him eating in his tent. He looked like some monastic creature, shirtless, with his grizzled face and beard. He was as happy as could be. We chatted and laughed. He was surprised to see me and was happy I hadn’t gotten hurt. He noted that my trekking pole was sticking straight up out of my pack. I told him I hadn’t thought of that. I lied. I actually had thought about the lightning rod of a pole on my back. I just didn’t care because I didn’t want my hands to be cold. Getting struck would have been nice and toasty. I hurried off in the final light and searched for a dry spot. I gave up on that and searched for a flat spot. My criteria disintegrated as the night fell. I settled for some lumpy wet grass and pitched my tarp.
Oh, and one more thing about the day. I do not have continuous footsteps from Mexico to Canada because of this day (and one other day I’ll get to later). Here’s why. When I hitched down into town I hitched from the road. I crossed the road and hitched left. When I returned with Nathan and Sophie we parked in the parking lot. I never walked back to touch the road sign which I hitched by. Even if I go back to fill in that thirty yard gap, I’ll only ever be a section hiker on the CDT. Damn.